Enrichment and Tutorials
I'm a very crafty person, but rather than making decorations or things to be used by people, I spend most of my time making toys for the rats. The good thing about this is that they're a very unjudgemental crowd - no worries if something didn't turn out exactly as planned, for it is still a lovely new toy! This page will include 'how to' guides for creating in-cage toys, and also activities for use during free range time. The majority of the things I make for my rats are not fabric based, so if you're looking for hammock/ bed making tutorials, then this is not the place. However I would hope that you'll still find something to take away.
I aim to encourage natural ratty behaviours in order to keep them physically active and mentally stimulated. Thus the accessories/ toys I offer include one or more of:
I aim to encourage natural ratty behaviours in order to keep them physically active and mentally stimulated. Thus the accessories/ toys I offer include one or more of:
- Balancing
- Climbing
- Digging
- Gnawing
- Water
Bamboo parrot toy
This is a length of bamboo with numerous holes drilled in. Som lengths of rope are threaded through, however over half are left open. To these holes I frequently add in chopped veggies to be pulled out. The toy can be hung vertically (as intended) but also horizontally; both options allow different ways in a range of difficulties for the rats to reach the food.
Initially I bought one of these toys from the NERS Shop at Preston October 2010. However I liked it so much (and bamboo is very hard wearing/ long lasting) that I bought another at the Christmas show 2010 so they could have one during the holidays in London also.
Initially I bought one of these toys from the NERS Shop at Preston October 2010. However I liked it so much (and bamboo is very hard wearing/ long lasting) that I bought another at the Christmas show 2010 so they could have one during the holidays in London also.
Bottle perch
I use a lot of little wooden perches in their cage, however it's perfectly possible to make home made perches. While I'm not confident enough to make my own wooden ones, plastic bottles make excellent alternatives. Very cheap and easy to make - and yet another texture/ shape for variety.
Using a heated skewer I melt holes in the plastic and then tie them up to the cage (usually with pipe cleaners or garden wire as they poke round corners best).
These can be attached either at the base of the bottle for increased stability, or at the neck end for a bit of a wobble requiring better balance. I have used a range of different bottle sizes (although 250-300ml is prefered), and also plastic rodent drinking bottles too.
Using a heated skewer I melt holes in the plastic and then tie them up to the cage (usually with pipe cleaners or garden wire as they poke round corners best).
These can be attached either at the base of the bottle for increased stability, or at the neck end for a bit of a wobble requiring better balance. I have used a range of different bottle sizes (although 250-300ml is prefered), and also plastic rodent drinking bottles too.
Destroy the pot plant
Every so often I give the rats a plant to destroy as an alternate way for them to forage for fresh food. This is usually an out time activity due to the amount of mess it creates; both soil and bits of squished up plant scattered about. Occasionally I will stick the pot in the middle of a water tray for more difficulty/ textures/ mess as Orbit is demonstating in the photo.
Options for plants include the fresh planted herbs often for sale in supermarkets, sprouted whole grains/ legumes/ grass. Often I will buy a living herb pot, overuse the plant, and then give the 'dregs' to them. Alternatively buying 10p 'this plant will die soon, please buy it' offers work well for the pocket!
Digging box
This is to allow them to properly dig (ideally with all four feet) rather than more surface-based foraging. Many people use plastic boxes with lids and pop-holes, however in the interests of saving money (big enough boxes tend to cost a fair bit) mine is a plastic waste paper bin with a fabric roof. It is attached with garden wire tied through holes I melted in the plastic with a skewer. I am a great fan of multi-purpose accessories; the roof is generally used as a firm material landing pad rather than a sleeping place. The box has a couple of holes near the top of the sides which are just large enough for me to be able to fit a clenched fist inside - for adding food and changing substrate purposes. The roof can be opened if necessary for cleaning.
Digging material varies for interest. At any one time I have used one or more of: Aubiose, cardboard substrate (Ecopetbed, Finacard, Green Mile), cross-cut paper, compost, sterilised garden earth, hay, straw and material strips.
Currently the ratlings don't have one all the time as the addition of lino around the outside of the cage means I am able to add a far greater depth of substrate - a specific digging box wouldn't add much. They do still have occasional access in order to dig in materials that are unsuitable for use on the floor of the cage e.g. compost.
Digging material varies for interest. At any one time I have used one or more of: Aubiose, cardboard substrate (Ecopetbed, Finacard, Green Mile), cross-cut paper, compost, sterilised garden earth, hay, straw and material strips.
Currently the ratlings don't have one all the time as the addition of lino around the outside of the cage means I am able to add a far greater depth of substrate - a specific digging box wouldn't add much. They do still have occasional access in order to dig in materials that are unsuitable for use on the floor of the cage e.g. compost.
Foraging basket
A similar activity to the above, however the material(s) used here tend to be those otherwise used for nesting. This means the rats must use their head and arms to push the strands out of the way rather than a digging action. I usually use either hanging baskets, plastic plant pots, or a mesh waste paper bin. All these options have holes in the bottom, so rather than adding small grains which may fall out, I generally add larger bits of food they have to go right in to get e.g. nuts in shells, dog kibble. As a result only the rats making the effort will recieve the rewards.
Nuts in a log - Sian Baxter
Pretty much what it says on the tin! This is a wooden mouse log tied onto the cage bars as a perch. Alone this provides another texture, while the holes add interest to the act of balancing.
The holes are just the right size to shove walnuts in so they get stuck. The rats then either have to chew the wood to get them out, or gnaw open the nuts in situ. This means the nuts last longer, no one rat hogs them, and a lot of energy is used trying to get them (I don't put the perch very near other things). I occasionally add other smaller nuts/ treats into the bunged up tube, however this is a bit too easy for them now. In the future I may experiment with wrapping smaller nuts in paper for an extra challenge in removing them from the log centre.
Currently this is Arky's favourite thing.
The holes are just the right size to shove walnuts in so they get stuck. The rats then either have to chew the wood to get them out, or gnaw open the nuts in situ. This means the nuts last longer, no one rat hogs them, and a lot of energy is used trying to get them (I don't put the perch very near other things). I occasionally add other smaller nuts/ treats into the bunged up tube, however this is a bit too easy for them now. In the future I may experiment with wrapping smaller nuts in paper for an extra challenge in removing them from the log centre.
Currently this is Arky's favourite thing.
Palm tree - Kyra Murray
This is a very simple and cheap to make paper-based foraging toy. Essentially I grabbed some sheets of newspaper, added some dry mix between the pages and rolled it all up with the folded edge at the bottom. I then shoved the paper inside a loo roll and cut the top of the paper to resemble fronds.
For some reason this is quite baffling to rats and takes a fair bit of brain power to figure out how to extract the food. They can either pull the paper out of the top, or do some chewing in the middle/ bottom. Usually the food falls out and then they have to race down and get it before someone else does; practiced technique is needed to stop this happening.
Parrot foraging cup
This toy is a couple of medium-weight (but bulky) plastic cups held together on a chain. The rats have to lift the top one up to access the reccessed food below. The bottom cup is split into three sections so one can put different food in each area. Usually I put dry food in, but occasionally fresh veggies will be used instead.
The one thing that annoys me about this toy is that in being designed for parrots, the chain is very thick. Too thick for me to add the usual wooden/ plastic beads which would make lifting the top cup more of a challenge. However it does mean I feel safe hanging it from all manner of places in the cage as it will be fine to completely take the weight of one or more rats as they cling on.
These are next to impossible to get your hands on (I was given mine by a friend). It was the desire and inability to have one that led me to designing and creating the PISS Cups listed below.
PISS Cups (aka Physical and Intellectual Solving Skills)
These are hanging plastic cups with a lid in which I usually put some of their dry food. In order to retrieve the food the rats have to lift up the lid - most climb in, or at the very least shove their front end in. I usually hang my PISS cup above a rope, another less-than-stable accessory or a small perch for added difficulty. The lid in the photo is my current favourite as it sits right inside the cup for a greater challenge. Other things I have used include; plastic hot chocolate tub lids, plastic plant pot dishes, bits of cardboard. I have also threaded wooden or plastic blocks/ beads onto the chain to add more of a weight challenge. The hole in the side is for sniffing (mine will check first before spending the effort getting in); I've never seen anyone reach in with arms for food.
Lirigon, Arky and Esker are the best at using this toy, and Arky usually gets the hang on what it needed for a new lid/ combination first.
For more info please see the projects page. I alternate using this with the original parrot toy listed above.
Snow
Very simply this is some snow in a dish!
This gives them a new and very different texture and temperature to others they will have experienced. My rats weren't overly keen when I started burying the food in the snow, however they loved eating the snow and having it melt in their hands.
Spikey caterpillar - Jemma Fettes
This is a toy which encourages vertical climbing and balancing - either alone or to retrieve food.
I cut the ends off a couple of 2L plastic drinks bottles and then jammed them together. At intervals I made holes and threaded plant sappling support sticks through. One of these is conveniently placed so as to hold the two bottles together. Leaving the sticks longer than the diameter of the bottles gives the rats the option different ladders. The outside ladders are much easier and accessible from other things in the cage, however the internal ladder often has e.g. penne pasta threaded on, or other bits of food tied inside.
Sprouts
When at home I try to always have some sprouts on the go as they make for easy and nutritious fresh food. While all whole grains can be sprouted, barley, oats, sunflower and safflower are the quickest and also have high percentages of viable seeds (not every single one will grow).
Seeds are soaked in warm water for a couple of hours and then sprinkled onto trays with a small amount of water. They're then put in a dark cupboard until around 30% of the tray are sprouted before being moved into the light. If the weather is cold or I want to otherwise speed things up I initially cover the trays in plastic bags to replicate mini greenhouses. If I'm just going to chuck the sprouts in some earth to be rooted up later, then I don't bother to give any sort of substrate for growing. However what I usually do is have a tray and cut the shoots off for a while before adding rats. Giving newspaper in this scenario ensures that the water is spread out evenly rather than pooling, and gives the roots something to attach to.
Beans can also be sprouted, although they need to be soaked for at least 12hrs first to soften up. I tend to sprout these in a collander as they require a moister environment with better drainage.
Seeds are soaked in warm water for a couple of hours and then sprinkled onto trays with a small amount of water. They're then put in a dark cupboard until around 30% of the tray are sprouted before being moved into the light. If the weather is cold or I want to otherwise speed things up I initially cover the trays in plastic bags to replicate mini greenhouses. If I'm just going to chuck the sprouts in some earth to be rooted up later, then I don't bother to give any sort of substrate for growing. However what I usually do is have a tray and cut the shoots off for a while before adding rats. Giving newspaper in this scenario ensures that the water is spread out evenly rather than pooling, and gives the roots something to attach to.
Beans can also be sprouted, although they need to be soaked for at least 12hrs first to soften up. I tend to sprout these in a collander as they require a moister environment with better drainage.
Stones
Mixed in with the substrate I usually give my rats a couple of smooth, rounded pebbles. These usually end up buried, but provide a variation in texture for them and can make foraging for food more of a challenge if I stick some food directly underneath one.
The stones are also used in construction if the rats are digging a big hole, to stop a side falling in. In addition they're cool in hot weather and are frequently scentmarked - as I leave the base fairly empty for foraging purposes there's not much down there which they can. I generally vary the size of the stones which are used, and I often see rats picking up/ pushing over the smaller ones in what seems to be for tactile reasons only.
They also have access to a small bucket of pebbles/ gravel of various sizes during free range. This is either used for foraging (occasionally I sprinkle grain in), they'll carry the smaller ones around, and generally manipulate the stone with their hands.
The stones are also used in construction if the rats are digging a big hole, to stop a side falling in. In addition they're cool in hot weather and are frequently scentmarked - as I leave the base fairly empty for foraging purposes there's not much down there which they can. I generally vary the size of the stones which are used, and I often see rats picking up/ pushing over the smaller ones in what seems to be for tactile reasons only.
They also have access to a small bucket of pebbles/ gravel of various sizes during free range. This is either used for foraging (occasionally I sprinkle grain in), they'll carry the smaller ones around, and generally manipulate the stone with their hands.
Treat ball
Similar to plastic roll-about balls designed for horses and dogs, this is a hollow ball with a small opening to allow food to trickle out. While eating food all in one go isn't something to be concerned about with rats, it encourages them to forage and use their brains to find food. The balls work best on a smooth surface, however it is still possible for them to work in deep substrate; it just takes a little more effort for them to turn them over.
These are relatively cheap to buy and are sold in various places - both on and offline. In addition they frequently come up for sale 2nd hand; I bought mine for 20p.
Veg ball
Very simply this is an open metal ball on a chain. The gaps are quite large, so as it stands it can be be filled with hay/ big leaves or chunks of fresh food. In order to involve other types of food and to increase the challenge, I often wrap food up iin a paper ball, or include strips of paper.
Usually I hang the veg ball in a place where rats can access both by standing up on their back legs, and by reaching down e.g. underneath a rope which is a fair distance above a shelf. In this photo I have attached it to the top of a cubic parrot toy.
These are cheap to buy and are sold in various places - both on and offline.
Usually I hang the veg ball in a place where rats can access both by standing up on their back legs, and by reaching down e.g. underneath a rope which is a fair distance above a shelf. In this photo I have attached it to the top of a cubic parrot toy.
These are cheap to buy and are sold in various places - both on and offline.
Veg spiral
This is a similar context to the above, but the metal is one long strand of wire. The toy is strong, but not rigid so to put food in I pull it open a little. The weight of the veg also causes a slight droop, though this retracts upon emptying. The gaps are essentially long and thin so I can either give them veg in a similar form (e.g. slices of pepper or tomato particularly) to be angled out, or bigger chunks to be manipulated or nibbled in situ.
I prefer this form to the basket as the veg pieces in the size I normally chop them up to fit in so that they're not impossible to remove, but neither do they immediately fall out straight away. In time I expect I will aim to hang it in similar places to the ball, although at the minute it is just on the side of the cage. As the food is removed it slips out of the (horizontal) bars, which means the last pieces aren't much harder to remove.
All my rats can manage this - so while not a challenge for all of them as a result, it doesn't exclude any from feeling they've managed something.
These are relatively cheap to buy and available in various places online. I bought mine from the NERS Rescue Fund 2nd hand sale.
I prefer this form to the basket as the veg pieces in the size I normally chop them up to fit in so that they're not impossible to remove, but neither do they immediately fall out straight away. In time I expect I will aim to hang it in similar places to the ball, although at the minute it is just on the side of the cage. As the food is removed it slips out of the (horizontal) bars, which means the last pieces aren't much harder to remove.
All my rats can manage this - so while not a challenge for all of them as a result, it doesn't exclude any from feeling they've managed something.
These are relatively cheap to buy and available in various places online. I bought mine from the NERS Rescue Fund 2nd hand sale.
